Port Valve

Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Port Valve
#1
Hello
I am using the integrated LED, sensor, valve ethernet cabled port. I can manually turn on the LED, and it detects pokes, but I cannot turn on the valve.

The valve works with a different Bpod, but not a Gen2 Board. What might be wrong?
Reply
#2
Hi Sam,

The Gen2 boards have an isolated valve driver circuit, powered externally. You need to plug a DC wall adapter into the barrel jack of the state machine to make the valves work. The wall adapter's voltage and current rating should match the valves you're trying to open. We ship a 1.5A, 12V wall adapter with each state machine. Previous versions of the state machine derived valve power from the USB connection by boost-converting its native 5V to 12V - but power via USB severely limited the number and type of valves you could control.

I hope this helps!

-Josh
Reply
#3
(01-24-2019, 05:16 PM)Josh Wrote: Hi Sam,

The Gen2 boards have an isolated valve driver circuit, powered externally. You need to plug a DC wall adapter into the barrel jack of the state machine to make the valves work. The wall adapter's voltage and current rating should match the valves you're trying to open. We ship a 1.5A, 12V wall adapter with each state machine. Previous versions of the state machine derived valve power from the USB connection by boost-converting its native 5V to 12V - but power via USB severely limited the number and type of valves you could control.

I hope this helps!

-Josh

Josh,

We're having a similar problem with 2 Bpods Gen 2 that we built ourselves.  Currently the rig is set up with a Bpod Gen 2 you manufactured and everything is working fine.  When we swap out your Bpod with ours (and change the COM port appropriately) we're able to drive the port LEDs and detect pokes but are unable to open the water valves.  We are using the same 12V DC power supply for both Bpods.  I opened the case and tested a few terminals with a voltmeter and got equivalent readings between your bpod and ours.  Specifically the base (heat slab) of the infineaon chip is reading 12.2V (same as input) and the outputs from the chip to the ports is ~10.4V.  When we open a valve with your bpod we see the 12.2V at the terminals on the nose port green board.  However when we try to open the valve with ours the voltage stays at 0.  Thoughts?  Thanks
Reply
#4
Hi Chuck,

When you measure the heat slab, are you measuring from the solder pad? Or from the part itself? If the solder junction is not conducting, the slab will still read 12V, while the part will read 0. I'd also run a continuity test between the gnd pin on the Infineon chip and the ground pin on the barrel jack, to make sure they're connected.

As a general word of advice, reflow soldering works much better with parts that have heat slugs. You can get a low-cost stencil made from OSHStencils, by sending them the .brd file. 

I hope this helps!
Reply
#5
(02-26-2019, 05:11 PM)Josh Wrote: Hi Chuck,

When you measure the heat slab, are you measuring from the solder pad? Or from the part itself? If the solder junction is not conducting, the slab will still read 12V, while the part will read 0. I'd also run a continuity test between the gnd pin on the Infineon chip and the ground pin on the barrel jack, to make sure they're connected.

As a general word of advice, reflow soldering works much better with parts that have heat slugs. You can get a low-cost stencil made from OSHStencils, by sending them the .brd file. 

I hope this helps!

Unfortunately everything tests out fine. When I tested the heat slab it was the part on the chip itself.  I just confirmed the chip heat slab is soldered well to the pad on the circuit. Also, the ground pin of the barrel jack is connected to the ground pin (19) on the chip, ie the output ground but not the input logic ground.  Is it possible we messed up something when we uploaded the firmware?
Reply
#6
After a little digging we determined the Infineon chip we soldered to the board is wrong.  We did not use part ISO1H815GAUMA1 but rather used part ISO1H812GAUMA1 which has a different input pin configuration beyond other differences.  The recommended part was out of stock and digi-key recommended the part we used.  Lesson learned, digi-key recommendations may not be identical components.
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)